Sunday, August 26, 2007

Rhino: Jodi and the 5 Mts of Misery

We had a special guest hiker with us on the seventh leg of the AT in the Shenandoah National Park, our sister Jodi drove up on Friday. We drove out to the trail head that evening and tried to sleep in our cars. Had a fun time catching up with Jodi and all her news from Charlotte, NC. I couldn't fall asleep in my car so I pulled my sleeping pad and sleeping bag out of the car and laid down on them. As I was gazing up at the brilliant Milky Way with a breeze blowing over me I witnessed a meteor shower, I saw three "shooting stars" Around 4am I dozed off. I was the first to wake around 063oam and watched the beautiful sun start to climb over the mountains to our east. I didn't know it, but I would be cursing the same sun hours later. We got our gear and piled into the Grey Ghost and drove 20 miles north to our starting point at Hightop Mountain about 1 mile north of rt 33.
Hightop Mountain nearly kicked my butt in the first hour, the Cliff Bar I had consumed so rapidly, was giving me cramps as we struggled up the mountain. Jodi thought I was taking it easy on her but I was really having some issues. When we reached the top and started looking at the elevation map, we realized there where four more mountains of considerable size with descent just as great. It reminded me of the roller coaster in Northern Virginia. Jodi stated she would like to get 15 miles done today, because she need to be home by 5pm on Sunday. I just laughed...I had never done 15 miles in a day and I knew she was being a little to optimistic.
We continued hiking and the day started heating up. We became soaked with sweat from our exertions and tried to keep hydrated by sipping our water at regular intervals. Our spirits were high as we joked and talked up trail. Jeremiah and I must have told Jodi every experience we had on the AT. She was really pushing it and seemed very motivated. But the terrain and heat would take it toll. When I came home on Sunday my wife claimed that we had hiked on the hottest day of the year 103 degrees F. We didn't know it at the time, all we knew was it was damn Hot! Jeremiah said it was the humidity that was killing us. I didn't argue...I was to tired.
Around mile 5 Jodi started complaining about a knee injury. Now I remember how I felt on my first hike so I was pretty concerned...We gave her some Icy Hot to put on her knee, and I put it on both my knees. Around noon we collapsed right on the trail and we each ate a power bar. It felt like heaven or hell I'm not sure. The bugs, flys, bees and gnats were relentless and soon forced us to continue. Jodi was limping more, and I began to think we should readjust our goals and get her off the trail ASAP to avoid furthering her injury...not to mention I didn't want to be out here in this blistering heat. We completed our third mountain and decided to refill at a Park ranger station 2oo yrds off the trail. We saw an amazing congregation of little butterflies, there must have been hundreds. The water from the Park Ranger station was cold and plentiful I poured a whole bottle over my head trying to cool off. Jodi went inside the ranger station to use the bathroom and came out with an ace bandage and an Ice pack that Ranger Rick had so graciously given her. She felt better and wanted to press on. I suggested to Jeremiah we should get to the next hut and call it a day.
As we were climbing the next mountain we began to hear ominous rumbling of thunder in the distance. We tried to pick the pace up but the never ending incline was absolutely kicking our butts. I began daydreaming about what we would find at the Hut maybe some day hikers with a cooler of cokes and beer...yeah. I began hallucinating and seeing things, like the hut and at one point I thought I could see a lake through the trees. Thats when I realized it was just the sky. We limped into the hut and found it was deserted except for the stench of mice or human urine. It was so revolting we had to set up our tents instead. The thunder seemed to be getting closer as Jeremiah heated up water for our trail dinner of sweet and sour pork with rice. I began having muscle cramps that would throw me to the ground writhing in pain. Jodi laughed and said I was a bigger mess than her...which was pretty close to the truth. Jeremiah and I had just finished our medicinal nightcap, when the rain hit. I ran to my new one man tent and jumped in boots and all. Jeremiah hurriedly pulled my rain tarp over my tent and ran down to his tent with Jodi. It was 6pm and the Heavens had opened up. The barrage of rain on my little yellow tent made me feel like I was in a popcorn popper. It felt like I was in a coffin and immediately I felt claustrophobic...Thankfully the rum helped and amidst the din of the deluge I fell asleep. I woke up when lightening seem to strike our hill with a BOOM! the rain seemed to intensify to biblical proportions and I discovered my rain tarp was not on properly and rain was leaking in the side. It was only 9pm so I went back to sleep. Around midnight I woke up again with the urge to go pee and rain seemed to have tapered off so I climbed out of my cacoon. Easier said than done. Through out the night I could hear footsteps and would call out loudly to ward off the bears or deer or raindrops that sounded like footsteps. Around 5am I had enough I began the impossible task of folding my sleeping bag up while laying down in my tomb tent. I got out and walked around waiting for Jeremiah and Jodi and the infernal sun to come up. Eventually they did wake up. We broke down our muddy camp and went down to the Mice hut for breakfast on the picnic table. The Creek was flowing so we filtered some water for the coming day. We all seemed refreshed and amazed that we had survived the night.
We started off by climbing a short mountain the temperature was measurably less but the humidity was still stifling. Jodi's injured knee was frustrating her and she was worried that I would call her a wimp...she doesn't have to worry about that. She was one tough cookie. Besides I was struggling with my own demons, fatigue, too many pounds and lack of motivation. I was hoping she would quit, so I could quit to...but no she wouldn't quit. Around 1130 we decided to go to wayside trail store which is halfway up Loft mountain...Well I demanded it! I had read in the hut's trail ledger that cheeseburgers and cold drinks were available and I was hoping she could get a ride from there. Jeremiah reluctantly agreed.
It such a strange feeling to feel air conditioning and drink Pepsi with Ice after being out in the wilderness, I know it had only been a day but after what we had been through it was very much appreciated. After wolfing down expensive Aramark Burgers we adjusted our plan once again. We would hike the last 2.5 miles on the road to our cars instead of taking the much longer winding AT which was 5 miles. The road was definitely easier but the bugs swarmed around us as we wearily trudged to our cars. Halfway back Jeremiah plunged back into the woods to finish on the AT. Jodi and I had enough so we continued down the road and were in sight of the parking lot when Jeremiah drove back and picked us up. 18 miles of suffering but we survived and hopefully Jodi enjoyed helping Jeremiah and I on our AT adventure. I would like her to hike with us through the Tennessee Balds or the Smoky Mountains when we get further south.

Saturday, August 4, 2007

Rhino: Sky Meadows Solo Hike



With the stress of retirement, I thought the perfect way to wind down would be a solo hike. I had just got done reading "A walk in the woods" by Bill Byrson and while inspiring, I was apalled that he had given up and hadn't Thru-hiked the whole trail. I would never give up, I thought...The Rhino never gives up! Boy was I wrong...I got a late start on Saturday. I had planned on going overnight, however I didn't arrive at the trailhead until 2:00pm. Now choosing where to start wasn't exactly a decision as much as happenstance. As I was driving out Rt 66 I saw a sign for skymeadows State park and took the exit on a whim. Since we had already hiked this area I was familiar with the surrounding and drove to the trailhead. I had drank plenty of water on the way out, but I was not ready for the Inferno I was about step into. Uh Yeah...Virginia in August...not the best weather for hiking. I started off with a spring in my step and beads of sweat on my brow. A little sweat never kill anyone...right? I cross Rt 50 and started up the south side of Ashby's Gap. I should have checked this blog before deciding on that mountain. We had hike it twice before , so this was my third trip up. How did I forget how difficult this mountain was. 15 minutes into the climb I was soaked with sweat, breathing was...well gasping for air and my heart felt like it was going to explode out of my chest. My one thought was..."what the hell are you doing to yourself."



I pressed on, with a pretty good pace I climbed that mountain only stopping twice for water. The woods seem dark and oppressive, the air hung ripe with the odor of steaming vegetation. I continued climbing until I began to see the trees up ahead were ending. I was excited to have made it to the top and emerged from the woods into the glaring sun. Was it my imagination or was it hotter this close to the sun. I felt like Icarus flying to close to the sun. I hurried across the Searing meadows and again saught the shade of the woods. I wondered where all the other hikers were? I found a sign next to a bench stating I had come three miles. I unhooked my pack and sat in a daze...I pulled out my map and thought about the next three miles to the shelter. A Hanta-shelter probably with lots of mice. Or why don't I just call it quits and return to civilization, air conditioning and Coca-Cola. Right then a rabbit hopped across the trail not three feet away, he pause and sniffed, something unpleasant and hopped away. I took it as an omen, a sign of what I should do...and packed up and started back towards my car. Why had I quit? Was it the extreme conditions? I thought long and hard and came up with a few reasons.
  1. I didn't have a plan or goal...the Appalachian was built for two reasons going north or going south. I didn't like the thought or understand why I was out here? for the workout?
  2. I didn't have a clearcut exit strategy.
  3. Most importantly I had found--I missed my hiking partner, my Brother to keep me motivated, to share the hardships with...Solitude was for suckers.

Statistics
Temperature 96* F
Distance 6 miles
Wildlife 1 Rabitt, 1 Frog, 1 Deer, 2 Squirels, 1 Tick on the back of my neck

Monday, July 16, 2007

Bullfrog: 6th Leg Round-Up

We finished the 6th leg by 11:30 am the second day. 20 miles in less than a day and half is pretty good ... for us. We saw a guy we had seen on the 5th leg three weeks earlier. He had been waiting for a ride at the end of his hike, and we chatted for a while with him while I was filling out our backcountry camping permit. This time, we were walking past a campground, and we passed him and a little girl. It took a second to recognize him (and he us) since we were so far from where we had seen him last. The timing and location made it unexpected. Then, on Sunday, after we were done, had had lunch, and I had dropped Rhino off at his auto, we made a pitstop on our way out of the SNP at Skyland, and saw the guy again.

Other than Rhino's balls, the only thing wrong with him was major poison ivy. He said it was everywhere, and, although I didn't see it, he sounded miserable on the phone.

I was fine, other than being extremely tired. I got a shower after I got back, and then after a short nap, we went to our church's picnic. I was feeling dehydrated and tired, but after guzzling some water and chowing down on some hotdogs, I was feeling pretty good. Thought about playing soccer with some church folks, but I figured I wouldn't have any stamina (which was probably right). Finally, someone suggested softball, and it's been too long since I played last ... there was no stopping me.

I played first base and we got trounced in the first inning. When I finally got up to bat, I got to big of a bat, and couldn't get it anywhere near the ball in time. I got a different bat, and I was able to begin to make some contact. When I finally got on base, I was at first, and someone popped up. I had started to run, but once it was caught, I scrambled to get back to first, and sorta slided. It was more of a squat-slide ... which, simply, doesn't work. My ankle rolled inside, and then I sat on it. I knew immediately something was hurt, and tried to walk it off a little, but it was seriously sprained. I ended up playing the rest of the game. I still was able to get my swing back pretty good, and chugged a couple of solid base hits.

By Monday, my ankle was the size of a softball. I could walk ... barely. I didn't do much for it other than to elevate it and ... uh ... self-medicate. Two weeks later, it's doing better, but it still let's me know not to jump or run.

Four weeks until the 7th Leg. I understand that Rhino's going to be doing a solo for several days. Rhino, please fill us in.

Sunday, July 15, 2007

Rhino: Breaking Records and Cracking Nuts

Big Meadows, Shenandoah National Park


Bullfrog and I drove out to Shenandoah National Park Friday night. We dropped off his car and then drove 20 miles north to Fishers Gap Overlook. The overlook was quiet, and we slept in the car waiting for the next day and the coming hike. The sun wasn't even up when I woke up, Bullfrog woke later and we packed up and started hiking before 6:30am. We had a great hike, the weather was good and we were really moving. We passed the sleeping campers at Big Meadows, I don't understand this form of camping and what it's use is. RV's and Pop-ups all located in a small area like a suburb outside of a metropolitan area. Big Meadows is considered a high altitude meadow discovered in the 17th century by European settlers. In 1996, during the Blizzard of 1996, Big Meadows recorded Virginia's greatest storm snowfall accumulation at 47"

We didn't get to see much of Big Meadows as we passed through quickly, however on the way home we drove through and it was very beautiful. I don't know why we were moving so fast, but it seemed effortless as we clicked off the miles. It must have been a combination of factors, the early start, the moderate terrain, my light pack, because we made it to Lewis Mtn before noon.

We were tired, but we had done 10 miles before noon! a new record. We made a short sidetrip over to the campstore for a few small purchases. We talked with a wiry Through-hiker who was proud of his 900+ miles, I was more amazed with his Australian sheep dog then him. Do dogs enjoy Through hiking? or do they resent it? Does he have to carry food for the dog?

When we left I began noticing a physical problem...I was chafing in the nether regions...not just a little bit either, alot. I had decided to go commando that morning, and it had turned out to be a bad decision. We continued for two more miles, but I was getting more tired and experiencing discomfort at every step. We stopped at the Pocosin Fire rd. and took a fifteen minute nap with flies, gnats buzzing around or heads. It was very difficult to rest there, as a family of six was traipsing down the road towards the cabin. Two more SOBO (south bound) Hikers stepped over us. Finally I had enough. "lets go find a camp site!" We pressed on, Bullfrog could see I was in pain and began looking for campsites. We climbed an extremely steep switchback and collapsed at the top. There was a small clearing right next to the trail and Bullfrog set up the tent without any help from me. I felt bad, I couldn't move. We had gone 12 miles, and had plenty of light left, but we weren't going any further. Bullfrog cooked dinner (freeze dried Chicken Pot pie) and we had a few drinks before we passed out from exhaustion.

The next morning Bullfrog was up and moving before the Sun came up. A deer was grazing near our camp and the weather seemed almost perfect. Jeremiah ate some freeze dried scrambled eggs and bacon and I had cold granola with blueberries which quickly turned my tongue and lips purple. My chafing problem although tender seemed like a thing of the past, and with a new found respect for Hanes briefs we set off on the remainder of our sixth leg. I couldn't help but point out every grassy flat area that could have been a potentially flat campsite (read: whaaaa, I don't like sleeping on hills w/ rocks!)

We were trudging up Baldface Mtn when Jeremiah shouted out behind me, "Whoooa!"
I looked back to see a small 24" snake I had instinctively stepped over. I don't know if it was poisonous, but it snapped at my hiking pole and crawl away. We saw a few more deer a couple of rabbits, ground squirrels and chipmunks. We saw bear scat on the trail and listened and watched for them diligently, but saw no bear. I still remember the large black bear we saw walking along the trail three weeks ago. He/She seemed very content to walk along with us minding his/her own business. Today, I was reading about bear encounters on whiteblaze.com, uhhhh...next time I won't stop for pictures.

3 miles away from Rt 33 we started a gradual descent along the sunny top of a ridge, which was rough on my knees. We took a short detour for water and picked raspberries along the way. Ripe wild raspberries, felt and tasted like a treat from God Himself...Well, I guess they were. We finally reached Rt 33 and picked some "wine berries" nestled in some poison ivy. We had completed another AT Map, we had a mile and half to go to the car. I didn't want to look at the next map, and I'm glad I didn't because that last mile and half was straight up a mountain...it was the hardest mile. We reached the hot sweltering car, and I was only to happy to just sit and sweat, with the windows down as we drove back to my car.

We may not be Through Hikers, or very athletic, were not the best or fastest hikers but my sense of accomplishment is the same as if I just completed the Boston Marathon. I am very proud of what we do. We are Appalachian Trail Section Hikers.

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Bullfrog: 6th Leg Coming Up

This weekend Rhino and Bullfrog are back to the Trail as we continue or journey through the Shenandoah National Park. Last time Rhino survived his first encounter with a bear (we had passed him before we had noticed him about 20-30 feet off of the Trail). It was not nearly as grueling as trying to keep Son of Rhino motivated. It's difficult enough keeping oneself motivated, but it is especially emotionally draining to have to encourage someone else just to keep moving their feet.

Anyway, it looks like it will be just 2 of us for about 18 miles. We'll be picking it up about the middle of the central district and going to the bottom, around Route 33. We hope to head out there early Friday night to get a decent start on Saturday. Trying to go even lighter this time ... particularly you, Rhino! Maybe you should use your new "North Face" pack.

I haven't done much physically since the last hike three weeks ago. The first week I was recovering from the flu or strep or TB or halitosis or something. The other two weeks ... I don't know other than that I've been overly busy. I'll get some exercise this weekend!

Off to home and packing my backpack.

Monday, June 25, 2007

Rhino: Appalachian Odyssey


Today we (Bullfrog, Son of Rhino and Me) finished our fifth leg of our Appalachian Trail odyssey. We have now gone over 100 miles from Harpers Ferry to midway down the Shenandoah Valley.The further we get away from home the more difficult logistics become. Thats why we decided to drive both cars to the start on friday night...er the finish. We arrived at Franklins Cliffs Overlook about Ten O'clock the parking lot was empty. So we decided to look for a trail head with flashlights and a few beers. We couldn't see anything in the dark so we just enjoyed the brisk evening. Bullfrog and I were drinking beers, not son of Rhino, and everytime a car would drive by we would hide our beers. We discussed setting up the tent or sleeping in the cars. Thats when a mysterious SUV drove up and parked near us. We stood by our cars...scared. All I could think of was the Zodiac killer gunning us down as we slept in the cars. After awhile when no one got out of the SUV we decided to risk it and go to sleep. Bullfrog got into his car and me and the boy got into the Grey Ghost. I couldn't sleep at all. I kept looking around expecting to see someone standing by my window. Around 0400 I fell asleep. The next morning we woke up and Boy said "Well were still alive!" We drove 20 miles south to Beahms Gap and began the hike.
Son of Rhino wasn't happy to be there, but I had been very adament that he go with us and experience this rite of camping. We started up Thorton's Gap which was nearly all uphill for 3500ft. I tried to take it easy on the boy, stopping frequently for water breaks. We eventually made it to the top, with its sweeping vistas and cool breezes. The boy enjoyed it...although he didn't want to admit it. We found a relatively flat grassy field and set up our camp. Evidently it was the home of three deer also, because they kept circling our camp all night. Sunday we woke up and started out on our last ten miles. I was really sore and my whole body was aching so I would go slow, the boy foraging ahead with unlimited stamina. We would catch up to him sitting on a rock sipping water. Wildlife was eveywhere, We counted 31 deer the whole weekend and half a mile from the car we saw a black bear ambling alonside the trail next to us. I took a few pictures before I left him, although he could have caught me. I was so proud of the boy and he finished right alongside me. He may never want to go again, but I'm glad he shared this hike with me.

Monday, June 18, 2007

Rhino: Excitement of the trail...

Back on the trail this Friday! I am looking forward to this so much. Do we need to check Equipment? Tent? Sleeping bags? Food? Christopher is still coming with us. I need to go to Hudson Outfitters and get him some Hiking Boots.
I announced my retirement from the United States Air Force this week. I will be retiring on or about 30 July, and yes there will be a party.